Tour Number 2: Still in SA but heading towards the NUllarbor

Day 1

Luckily for me but not for my friend he starts work at 6:30am so he was able to drop me off in town in plenty of time for my 6:45am pick up for my Nullarbor tour. I was being picked up at the Adelaide YHA and became nervous on seeing many people gathering outside the hostel a few doors up. Eventually I spoke with one of the few people waiting outside the YHA and discovered that she too was waiting for the Nullarbor tour so we decided we were both unlikely to be wring and sure enough at 6:45am our bus arrived.  Though the tour is called the Nullarbor tour our first few days were to be spent in South Australia. Before the tour could start we had to make a few more stops to collect the rest of our group. In the end there was a mother and her young son, two German couples two Swiss girls who were travelling together and four other girls who were on the tour on their own like me.   Our first morning was mostly spent on the bus and we used the odd rest stop to try and work out who we all were. The girls and I who were sitting near each other managed to chat a little on the bus doing the who are you , where are you from and what brings you to Australia thing. When we stopped for a lunch of sandwiches (which would be our standard lunch fare for the next ten days) we were able to mix more and have the conversation with most of the other passengers however it soon transpired that the German couples spoke very little English. We managed to pass the time pleasantly enough.  

After lunch we drove to Alligator Gorge for our first group walk. No-one is sure why it’s called Alligator Gorge as there are no Alligators in Australia but it was still a lovely walk and I was happy to discover that I was not the only snap happy person on the tour as a few of the other girls were happy to hang back and take as many photos as me. The walk was great and it was too soon before we were back on the bus and on our way to Warren Gorge, the same place we had stopped on our last tour to look for Wallabies. 

We did make a couple of quick stops on the way to pick up a few drinks for the evening and to collect some fire wood. Getting the cider was easy but the fire wood proved more difficult as it turns out that tress far from being peaceful giants are actually cunningly evil. I was innocently trying to break up some branches by jumping up and down on them when they attacked me and knocked me to the ground scratching my legs on the way down. Luckily the only thing really hurt was my pride and I managed to avoid collecting any more evil wood. We got to Warren Gorge late afternoon and before setting up the campsite took a short walk to look for the Wallabies but no-one had informed them we were there to see them and only one came out to visit us. Despite the lack of Wallabies it was a lovely walk and even managed to get our first group shot with most of the group present and using the timer functions on our cameras whilst balancing them on our bags. It was almost as entertaining as seeing the Wallaby. It was still early by the time we returned to the campsite so some of the girls and I walked up a nearby hill only to find a fence blocking our path. The walk wasn’t wasted as we spotted some small cacti and a more likely looking hill on the other side of the campsite. We had done a lot of walking so only two of us made the attempt but it was worth it for the view once we got there. Having run out of hills we returned to camp and set up our first camp with camp chairs round the fire and swags just beyond them before our first camp dinner. I also took the opportunity to rearrange my bag which one of my new friends kindly photographed. It was then time to prepare our first group dinner before going in search of the wallabies once more. This time we kept quiet and as it was later on in the day we were fortunate to see a few and this time I had my camera so I could take as many photos as I wanted before it was back to the camp for the night.

It had been a long day for us all so by 9:30pm we were in our swags for the night. Though it was not my first night sleeping under the stars on the last tour the fires and weather stopped me from seeing them as clearly as I had hoped. I have ben looking forward to seeing an outback starry night and was therefore very happy that on my first night on this tour though the sky was clear and when I woke up in the middle of the night I saw not only Orion but also the Milky Way and so many other stars I wouldn’t have been able to make out any other constellation even if I could have remembered what the southern ones looked like.

Day 2

After rolling up our swags and tidying up our breakfast stuff it was time to hit the road. We had the excitement of stopping at the bridge from the opening scene of Wolf Creek (which I have not seen and have no plans to see) and at Port Augusta for a top up of our alcohol supplies and some water since we were having difficulty with our water tank. Once we had our essentials it was on the bus again until lunch time where we found some impromptu lunch guests in the shape of two very cute dogs which appeared to be as excited to see us as we were to see them. After lunch we stopped by Venus Bay to see some wild dolphins. It was the first time I had seen dolphins in the wild and it was pretty cool plus we were able to paddle in the sea with some pelicans to keep us company afterwards. Our next visit was to be the Tub at Talia caves. The views were spectacular so I decided not to venture down to the tub due to my fall the previous day, not to mention the twice I went over on my ankle whilst looking for Wallabies had made me think I was too accident prone to risk the steep log ladder. I wasn’t the only one who stayed up top and we amused ourselves taking photos of the tub and the surrounding area. Shortly the rest of the group returned as we were on our way to Coodlie Park hostel. That wasn’t our last stop for the day though, we were merely making a quick stop to pick up some sand boards and it was off to some nearby dunes for some sand boarding.

Sand boarding was fun but not as exciting as I hoped. The dune looked high but it took now time to board down it and the climb up was pretty hard. It might have been worth it if I could have kept my eyes open but it found it really hard, next time I am totally wearing sunglasses and then maybe as well as seeing the view on the way down I’ll know when to make sure my chin up and not end up with a bruise on my chin! Yup day two of the tour and I managed to hurt myself for the fourth time. Seriously, I’m not sure it’s safe to let me loose on the world by myself. Thankfully I wasn’t really hurt and this time my pride was also intact since I injured myself in the name of adventure and I had yet another impressive bruise to add to my collection. Due to the harsh climb on the way up we all only had a couple of goes each before we headed back to the hostel where we were assigned our rooms where we would spend the next two nights before our week of camping under the stars. The hostel is part of a farm where they plant trees and run the tour business as well as being home to a number of wild wallabies. That evening we were taken on a nocturnal tour where we saw a number of kangaroos but only managed to glimpse a couple of wallabies.  The moon was getting pretty full and the owner of the farm told us that made us easier for them to detect and therefore gave them time to run and hide. It was still fun and we stopped to see one of their borrows and discovered that wallabies have square poop. It wasn’t a wallaby but it was fairly entertaining and on eof the kangaroos obligingly jumped a fence for us which was something new. Our search for the evening over it was time for bed, tomorrow was going to be a big day after all.

Adelaide: The tour stop over city

When I told people I was staying in Adelaide for nine days they invariable asked me why. On explaining that I was taking a tour there and leaving for my next tour from the same place I then received sympathy. I can understand why some people might not like Adelaide it’s small and quiet; I enjoyed my time there but I’m not sure I’d want to live there.

On my first full day in the city I was thankful for a proper long lie as my first night in the city had been a late one. It was after 9am when I got up and it was straight to the showers to wash off the slight hangover that I seemed to have acquired. My UK friend was still asleep when I returned so I went up to the common room to send some e-mails, work on my blog and play with the many (900!) photographs I had taken over the last 6 days. Whilst there I caught up with my fellow Scot from the tour and was able to find her on the dreaded facebook before it was time to say goodbye again. Not long after that my UK friend arrived in the common room and we discussed possible activities for the day over breakfast. We decided to walk towards the cathedral and look for a cheap lunch spot. Sadly there was a funeral at the cathedral so we quickly passed it by. We did find some cheap but tasty lunch nearby then walked back towards town and the South Australian Museum. Our second guide had recommended it as it has an impressive collection explaining many of the Aboriginal cultures. This was by far the most comprehensive exhibition I have seen so far but the exertions of the tour (and perhaps the alcohol from the previous night) were catching up with me and I am ashamed to admit that combined with the dark rooms I found it difficult to take it all in and became rather sleepy. I took a quick tour of the other exhibits but I was less impressed. The Pacific cultures exhibit was small but interesting but the Egyptian exhibits and stuffed animals were nothing new. I did notice they were hosting the ANZANG nature photography exhibition which I decided I would visit at a later date. I then confused the museum staff by walking round the whole museum three times looking for my friend. As I was completely unsuccessful I decided that if I were to rest on the grass outside the main entrance then she would be sure to see me when she was finished. Sure enough as the museum was closing out she came and spotted me almost immediately. The plan was then to go for a quick dinner and get an early night as my friend had booked us in for a tour round a local chocolate factory the next day. Many of you should now know my views on plans and therefore be unsurprised that said plan didn’t work out (they rarely do in my experience) and we ended up not only getting dinner but a few drinks as well. It was a fun evening but drinking two nights in a row isn’t really great for my stomach or, it turns out, my memory.

I woke up the next morning and all I remembered was that we planned to walk along the river and perhaps get a paddle boat. Since I was feeling decidedly under the weather I didn’t hurry to get up and dressed. I was also very surprised that my friend was up and about and had eaten before me as she usually sleeps longer than I do. Sadly the reason for this was the afore mentioned tour. Instead of walking to the factory we caught one of the free trams but sadly missed the tour. We were able to take a walk through ourselves though and my friend was able to purchase some of their tasty Aussie chocolate to take back home. We then headed back into the city as my friend wished to explore the museum more. As we had fallen in to the habit of going round at our own pace we arranged to meet outside at a specified time. I was still not feeling entirely healthy so I decided to stay outside in the fresh air and took a walk over to the botanic gardens. The gardens were as lovely as any I have seen. I found my usual sense of peace and was delighted to discover the rose garden which still had most of its flowers in bloom even if they were starting to wilt a little in the heat of the coming summer. I didn’t wander far as I didn’t want to be late, as I often am. I therefore arrived at the museum with enough time to lie on the grass with my music in my ears so I could rest and soak up the ever so pleasant afternoon sun. This is where my friend found me and once we were sure I was awake ( I wasn’t even aware I had fallen asleep) we went in search of a sushi restaurant as my friend loves it and doesn’t get it very often back in the UK. It was then back to the hostel to pack up and get an early night as we were checking out of the hostel the next day.

Having packed the night before I was able to check out relatively quickly and my friend wasn’t far behind me. As she had a plane to catch she wasn’t inclined to explore the city further and I was grateful for the chance to catch up on my photos, blogging and e-mails. Her flight was early afternoon so she left late in the morning whilst I stayed in the YHA common room until 3pm when my friend from the mountains finished work and was able to pick me up. He did manage to confuse me slightly by driving a different car but once he found me it wasn’t long before I was chatting his ear off as I used to on our drives to and from work. I was also very excited as I was finally getting to meet his partner who i had heard so much about and even spoken too once or twice. I met her at my friends parents house where she had been looking after his younger siblings and for some reason went uncharacteristically shy and even more amusingly so did she! On arriving back at their house we had time for a quick change before getting some pizza and settling in front of the tv for food, wine and of course lots of chatting. Needless to say my friends partner and I didn’t stay shy for long, especially once the wine was opened.

The next day I caught a lift in to the city with my friend who started work at 7:30am. Though the art gallery doesn't open until 10am I had to go to the YHA to collect my camera where the lovely ATA tour guide had left it after rescuing it from the national park. Camera in hand once more I enjoyed exploring the city stopping to take as many photos as I could along the way of course. I stopped to get a croissant at one of the markets and have a cup of tea at a cafe before meandering through the streets to the North Terrace and the art gallery. They had recently held a specialist exhibition which was now finished so most of the galleries were empty and closed off. This meant that the remaining galleries had a most unusual arrangement. They had been arranged in periods not only show casing art from a particular period but also art which represent that period. Te international and Australian artists were all shown together and though I was disappointed not to see and of my favourite artists I saw a few name that I recognised as well as being introduced to a few I didn’t. I treated myself to a splendid lunch of duck on a mango risotto during my explorations then once I had exhausted the galleries I returned next door to the museum for a cup of tea whilst I waited for my friend as the lovely sunny day changed into a rather rainy one. Thankfully my friend was able to pick me up outside the gallery so I managed to avoid the worst of it. To celebrate the start of the weekend we headed to a nearby pub for dinner and a few drinks before finishing our evening with some criminal minds a few more drinks back home.

The weekend was very exciting as two of our friend from the mountains were in the city and stopped by to visit. We skyped our mutual friends that I stayed with in Sydney so we could all say hello and tell her we wished she were with usbefore heading back in to the city for a tasty meal with lots of meat and of course, a few drinks! It was a fun night and as it went on more and more of my friends friends appeared so I ended up talking to anyone foolish enough to sit next to me for more than five minutes. It was a random and fun night out for sure followed by a very lazy Sunday.

On Monday I was meant get a lift to the bus stop from my friends partner but ended up going back to bed and having a day catching up online and being lazy. I did get up the next day and she kindly dropped me off and told me which bus to get. They live quite a ways out of the city so I made it to the museum just as they were opening giving me plenty of time to enjoy the ANZANG nature photography exhibition. There was a large group of school children in at the same time as me which worried me until I realised they were all very well behaved. It was an excellent exhibition and I had great trouble leaving it, it took me half a dozen attempts before I finally made it out of the door without being distracted by one of the brilliant photographs. Once outside I decided to walk along the river towards the botanic gardens so I could take some photos with my proper camera as my previous visit had been recorded using my iTouch. This was a PLAN and therefore didn’t work. You’d think I’d learn but I can’t help myself, I do like to make plans, which is probably why I have so many of them. The plan was foiled by the beauty of the river. The day was what I had always imaging Australia to be. It was sunny, there were people relaxing beside the river and along the river as the ferries cruised slowly up and down it. There were also lots of ducks and other bird about which were all too tempting for a girl with a camera in her had, especially when I came across two duckling curled up together not far from the path. I did make it to the botanic gardens but only just and therefore had to turn about and head back in top the city so my friend could find me and take me home. It was a lovely last day in Adelaide. It may be the quietest city I have visited so far but that in itself gives it it’s own charm. It was lovely to see my friend again and make friend with his lovely girlfriend but whilst I was sad to leave them behind I was looking forward to my next adventure – crossing the Nullarbor!

Alice to Adelaide: The End

Tour Day 5:

Once more we were up before the sun and headed out to our first destination: Dutchmans Stern. We had three hours to walk up and back, roughly the same amount of time we had spent at kings Canyon but this was a very different walk. As we walked to the base of the hill we saw a fabulous sunrise which was much appreciated as we had missed out at Uluru and Cooper Pedy. The walk to the top of the hill was a steady climb though thankfully at a lower incline than the start of the Kings Canyon walk. As I climbed I saw some spectacular views in the occasional instances when the trees cleared. We were all walking at our own pace and as my friend had hurt her ankle she urged me to go on ahead. I quickly fell behind the majority of the rest of the group and enjoyed the peace and tranquillity the solitary climb allowed me. I was also pleased to stop and take photographs without feeling like I was holding up the group. I was worried that I would take too long to reach to top but in the end I was there in plenty of time to enjoy it with the rest of the group, I was not even the last one to the top. Sadly my UK friend didn’t make it all the way to the top but she assured me she enjoyed the part of the climb she was able to manage with her sore ankle. I enjoyed my moor walk last year and knew before I came out here that I wanted to do more walking and this walk confirmed it. The views were spectacular once more and the feeling of achievement of having climbed the hill to see them was very satisfying. Not to mention that the walk itself was most enjoyable. Having said that I’m not sure how a bundled up walk in the cold Scottish highlands will compare to a walk in the sunshine in my shorts and t-shirt! After enjoying the view we retraced our steps back to the bottom of the hill to our bus.

Our next stop was the Wilpena Pound national park but since none of us needed to return to the camp we were able to take the back road and visit the grave of Hugh Proby; the first man to try settle Kanyaka Station which though only 150 years old is now a historic ruin. However between the death of Hugh Proby and its current state it was at one time one of the largest stations in the district making it an interesting historic landmark. Our next pit stop was at the first telegraph station where we lined up and were able to hear as the people at the front and back of the line tapped out messages directly on the old line. On the way along the road our guide stopped occasionally to point out the lizards sunbaking beside (or sometimes on) the road. We even saw a Brown snake from the safety of the bus as we were instructed most emphatically not to leave the bus, I for one didn’t need telling twice.

We made it to Wilpena Pound an hour and a half before lunch and were told to take our time climbing to the lookout point. The trail we were on would give us an excellent view of the hills that surround Wilpena making it perfect for keeping goats in one place back in the early days of settlement. Once again the views were stunning. The area is well forested and though we were told Echidnas had been spotted I doubted I would see anything as the landscape looked so busy with vegetation. I was right and I didn’t but I did see some emu’s running around on my way back. There were three little ones and two larger. I stayed well back enjoying watching their interaction then continued back towards the bus. Though I saw little wild life I still enjoyed the spectacular views the natural basin provided. I was the second last person back and the other were impatient to be off for lunch so we decided I would wait for my friend who was sensibly taking her time due to her sore ankle. I enjoyed waiting in the peace and quiet and hoped that a wee Echidna might even think it was safe enough to venture out. Sadly it was not to be and my friend soon arrived followed closely by the next tour bus. The guide was with the same company as ours and told us she would take up to our lunch spot to save our guide a trip. In my hurry to get going I am ashamed to admit I left my precious camera behind, a fact I only realised after lunch when we were clearing up in order to move on to our next destination.

Our next but by no means last destination of the day was the ruins of Kanyaka Station farmhouses. It was sad to see the place in such disrepair but interesting to see how the first settlers would have lived nonetheless. We didn’t spend too long at the farm house as there wasn’t much to see and there was more to do before our day was done. Our next stop was another lookout point which had a scaled model of the Wilpena landscape allowing us to see the whole formation. We made a quick stop at Yourambulla Caves where some of our group took a short walk to view some Aboriginal rock paintings before heading to our final destination before heading back to the hostel. This was Warren Gorge where we had a quick stroll through peaceful surroundings in the hopes of seeing a Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby or two. We actually about half a dozen and I was gutted not to have my camera on me. I did have my phone but it isn’t anywhere near as good. However I felt privileged to see these once elusive creatures especially as they were ever so cute. After another full day it was now time to head back and make dinner for both groups.

 

Once back it was all hands on deck to chop veggies and get the preparation underway and before long dinner was well underway. Once our help was no longer necessary some of us settled in to watch the second half of the Rugby world cup. I was please when New Zealand won as I think they deserved it the most though it was a close game, especially at the end. Rugby over it was time for dinner and a relaxing drink. We had clear up duty as well as we had done nothing the previous night so once everything was cleaned all that was left to do was to sit outside with our drinks and enjoy the rest of our evening.

Tour Day 6:

Having managed to fit all but one activity into our second last day all that remained was to get on the bus and head to Adelaide via the Clare Valley and a few wineries. Our first stop was a quiet winery who’s name I forget so therefore I assume their wine wasn’t worth remembering either. It was a short walk from the winery to our lunch area where bacon wraps and sarnies were the order of the day, very exciting especially as the bacon was nice and crispy. Our next stop was Annies Lane who I think do a rather nice Chardonnay not to mention there distinctively interesting Rose (of which I purchaed a bottle for my friends in Adelaide) and our last stop was the Taylor winery where I preferred the Semillon Sauvignon Blanc from their white Jaraman range and, surprisingly for me, their Jaraman Shiraz. Once we were all feeling slightly tipsy and happy our guide wisely handed out the evaluation forms and it really was the end of the tour. Within a few hours we were in Adelaide and checking in to our respective hostels. It wasn’t quite over yet though as we decided to meet up for one last meal at a nearby pub. It was a lovely way to end the tour and though most people bailed two of us did make it to the casino. It was the first time I have been in a casino for over three years and I am pleased to say I did my man proud by coming away with more than I went in with (I am sure he was giving me a little help along the way!). All in all it was fitting end to a fabulous week and I can honestly say I would recommend that anyone who is spending time in Australia do this tour. It was expensive but our guide made sure we got out moneys worth for sure. Five stars, two thumbs up and big smiles all round. Epic.

Alice to Adelaide: Heading South

Tour Day 3:

The third day of our tour started with a long lie, the sun was actually up before I stepped outside the tent! The rain had stopped sometime during the night leaving large puddles behind which I side stepped on my way to breakfast, grateful I didn’t need my umbrella to get there. Once everyone was up and about and had eaten we cleared away the breakfast things, loaded up the trailer and were soon on the bus again off to out next adventure. Our destination this time was a mining town called Cooper Pedy via another important aboriginal site known to us as the breakaways. Australia is ancient. The hills and mountains have been eroded to their present size and the long gone seas have left deposits which have solidified and been eroded by weather and tectonic movement giving the seemingly endless landscape stunning features such as Uluru, Kings Canyon, Kata Tjutu and now this vast area broken up by once again similar yet different features. Unlike the previous sites we didn’t venture down in to them but admired them from above (taking the obligatory million photographs of course) until it was time to get back on the bus and finish the drive to Cooper Pedy. On the way there  we were split in to two groups and informed that we would be set challenges along the way to Adelaide and the team with the most points at the end would get a prize. Sadly as the last to get on the bus my friend and I were separated by a German couple and we ended up on separate teams. Though this worked out quite well for me as at least all of my team spoke fluent English!

After unloading the trailer our first stop was at tour of the one of the many mines in the small town. We started with a film explaining the history of the town and how it came to its current incarnation. The main feature and attraction of the town after the opals is that it is mostly underground. After the second world war the men who returned head to Cooper Pedy to make their fortune. As there were no trees for miles around the ex-soldiers, used to building trenches, simply dug in to the hillsides and made their homes there. These days the residents use machinery but living underground is still the predominant way of life there.  After the film we were shown how opals are cut and polished from their rough state in to the stone we see in the stores. Next we were taken underground to see a basic hand mined room that showed how the original settlers lived before being shown a modern setup which looked a lot like a any other home except for the lack of windows. We walked from the house through some tunnels where we were given a short talk on current mining methods and shown a seam of opal in the rock. A quick look round the shop and cultural centre and it was back to our accommodations for lunch. Like much of the town out hostel was built in to one of the hills making it a very different hostel than any I had staying in before.

 

Post lunch we were given a quick tour of the town including an underground church and the coolest grave ever before stopping at a lookout point and getting a good overview of the town. Tour over some of us stopped by the public noodling area to look through the waste rock for small opals. I was a bit sceptical but it was surprisingly addictive and we found many pretty rocks but no big opals, though our guide did find a small one worth cutting and polishing. Noodling is dirty work so I was glad we had time for a shower before our pizza dinner, especially as we wouldn;t have to do any prep, cooking or clearing up ourselves for once. Usually dinner signals the end of the days activities but not this time. After dinner we were taken to Josephine’s Gallery where we saw some pretty good aboriginal art work and didgeridoos. Josephine’s isn’t just a gallery though it is also a Kangaroo orphanage. They take in orphaned Joeys and bring them back to health before releasing them to the wild or into one of the many sanctuaries in the country. We were fortunate enough to meet some of the orphans who for whatever reason wouldn’t survive in the wild and a couple of new arrivals that they hoped to release once they were well enough to survive on their own.  As if all this wasn’t enough we then had the added bonus of being taken out to a shooting range and I had my first attempt at using a shot gun. I am pleased to say I hit two of the clay pigeons though I am sure it was blind luck not skill both times and am even more please to say that our highest scorer was a fellow scot! 

                                                                

Tour Day 4:

Day four was a day of driving. We were up with the sun and left Cooper Pedy shortly after 8am to head south once more. We did stop at the flying doctor run way and attempted to land our own paper planes across it but the wind had other ideas. The direction of the wind meant that most of them went sideways rather than across the road! My team had the ingenious idea of scrunching up one of the planes and throwing it though so we won the challenge for which team got a plane furthest across the road. We passed through Glendambo which had the most interesting population sign I have seen yet and stopped at Lake Hart; one of the smaller dry salt pans it seemed to stretch for miles in to the distance. We stopped for lunch at Woomera where I earned some bonus points for my team by drinking a small sup of salad dressing before checking out the nearby birds. After lunch we stopped to look at some old rockets and planes as the town has it’s own rocket range. Woomera is a strange town. It has a tiny population yet it has a baseball field and oval that are kept in excellent repair and though many building look deserted there is evidence that people still live and work their though we only saw a handful of people whilst we were passing through, It’s easy to see why it could be the object of more than one conspiracy theory! After lunch we had a quick look at the rockets and planes on display nearby then it was back to the bus and on to our home for the next two nights, an old converted Mill in a place called Quorn. Once there we were given a break from meal duties as a tour going North were also going to be there for the same two nights so they took cooked and cleaned giving us a much appreciated break. After a day in the bus it was nice to spend the evening relaxing outside with a cold cider before getting an early night as we had a busy day ahead of us the next day. We had agreed to fit the last two day tour in to one so that we could stop at some wineries on the way in to Adelaide!